Wonderguide by

Michael Tyznik

Places I love in Japan

A guide for my friends of the places I love in Japan. I also have language, transportation, and cultural tips here: https://tyznik.com/japan

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Shinjuku

Our home base in Tokyo. It's basically the "Times Square" of Tokyo: the center of everything, easy transit connections to everywhere, lots to do (both touristy and not), and a great place to stay when exploring Tokyo.

Place

Shinjuku Station

Michael:The busiest train station in the world. Easy connection to anywhere in Tokyo.

Place

Hotel Gracery Shinjuku

Michael:This hotel in Shinjuku has a giant statue of Godzilla's head on the roof. Take the elevator up to the lobby for free to see it up close.

Place

ONSEN RYOKAN 由縁新宿

Michael:This hotel has teensy tiny rooms, but the roof is an onsen bath, where you can sit outside in the hot spring water and look over the city. (Note: To visit the bath, you cannot wear a bathing suit and if you have tattoos, you must be able to cover them up with a bandage.)

Place

Tokyu Stay Shinjuku

Michael:Inexpensive hotel with reasonably-sized clean rooms right in the middle of everything in Shinjuku, but set back in an alley off the main street which is nice. (No onsen.) Also has laundry machines in every room which is great for longer trips.

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Kabukicho

Michael:This is the nightlife area of Shinjuku. (Zach and I hung out in the gay area so I don't have any specific places here to recommend!)

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The Peak Lounge

Michael:This bar is in the sky lobby of the Park Hyatt hotel from Lost in Translation. "Peak of Joy": for $60 a person you get a bunch of small plates and unlimited cocktails for 2 hours, while you overlook the city. Great place to watch the sunset. Reservations are needed and can be made here: https://restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp/en/plb.html

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Isetan Shinjuku Store

Michael:Giant department store. The basement has an amazing food hall ("depachi"), and one of my favorite things is to buy a bunch of snacks (e.g. amazing expensive fruit) and eat it up in the roof garden.

Place

Takashimaya Times Square

Michael:Another giant department store with a basement food hall, 2 floors of restaurants, and a roof garden.

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TAITO STATION Shinjuku GameWorld

Michael:Definitely wander around an arcade while you're in Tokyo! They usually have a whole floor dedicated to music games that are super fun to play or watch.

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Go Go Curry Shinjuku Main Store

Michael:Try some Japanese comfort food! Purchase your curry from the vending machine at the front of the shop, then hand the ticket it gives you to the employees.

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Ikinari Steak Shinjuku 2 Chome

Michael:Quick place to grab a bite to eat -- there are no chairs, you order your steak by the gram and stand at a counter to eat.

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7-Eleven

Michael:On almost every corner will be a convenience store (called konbini). They all have amazing quick grab and go sandwiches, snacks, and drinks! (Also great $2 canned cocktails called chu-hi or highballs.)

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Lawson Shinjuku Gyoen Ekimae

Michael:Another great chain of konbini.

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FamilyMart Shinjuku Yasukuni Street Store

Michael:The third big chain of konbini.

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BEAMS JAPAN

Michael:Big multi-story shop with cool clothing, art, and souvenirs.

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Omoide Yokochō -Memory Lane-

Michael:Also called "piss alley" (ignore that name), this is an area with a bunch of tiny bars where you sit at the counter and chat with the owner.

Place

Robot Restaurant

Michael:Not really a restaurant -- don't eat here. This show is an extremely touristy experience, but it's amazing. Complete sensory overload that made several of us cry.

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ARTNIA Square Enix

Michael:Square Enix cafe, gift shop, and shrine for video game nerds.

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Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

Michael:Very beautiful, huge botanical garden right in Shinjuku. (Haven't been yet but want to!)

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APA Hotel Shinjuku Gyoemmae

Michael:A less expensive, less trendy hotel with similarly tiny rooms, but the included hot spring is in the basement, not on the roof.

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Ichiran Shinjuku Kabuki-cho

Michael:Chain of ramen shops all over Japan where each customer gets a private booth to eat their ramen and you fill out a sheet to specify exactly how you want it.

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COBI COFFEE box

Michael:This coffee stand inside the Newoman mall at Shinjuku Station has the most amazing kakigori shave ice. It was our favorite dessert in Japan.

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Gift from Michael. Get a discount off all experiences!

Other Tokyo

Other areas to visit in Tokyo

Place

Tokyo Station

Michael:Another giant train station which is where you catch Shinkansen trains to other cities, as well as having a huge underground mall. The surrounding area is called Marunouchi.

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Tokyo DisneySea

Michael:Widely regarded as the best theme park in the world, and totally unique to Japan. A quick train ride from the center of Tokyo. (If you want to go, please check out my tips in the Google Doc!)

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Shimokitazawa

Michael:A great hipster neighborhood in Tokyo with restaurants, bars, and vintage shopping. Take the train to Shimokitazawa station and explore both north and south.

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Bear Pond Espresso

Michael:Tiny coffee shop in Shimokitazawa.

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Ginza

Michael:Tokyo's famous luxury shopping district. All of the big luxury brands have shops with unique architecture.

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Saint Laurent Dover Street Market Ginza

Michael:Large fashion store with a ton of different avant-garde streetwear brands.

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Asakusa

Michael:Tokyo's temple district. (If you're going to Kyoto I'd skip this and visit temples there.)

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Tokyo Skytree

Michael:Observation tower with amazing views of the city. Get your tickets in advance!

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Odaiba

Michael:Manmade island in Tokyo Bay with lots of large-scale tourist attractions.

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teamLab Borderless

Michael:Another sensory overload experience located on Odaiba. A huge warehouse completely filled with AR art installations. Completely blew our expectations. Get tickets in advance for this one too.

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The Life-Sized Unicorn Gundam Statue

Michael:While you're on Odaiba check out this crazy giant gundam robot statue.

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Ueno

Michael:East Tokyo neighborhood with lots of museums and a large park.

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Ueno Park

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Tokyo National Museum

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Akihabara

Michael:Tokyo's nerd capital. Tons of arcades, game shops, manga shops, and maid cafes. (Be aware if you're coming here with kids, there is a lot of explicit cartoon imagery both in shops and outside.)

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AKIHABARA KOTOBUKIYA

Michael:Shop with many floors of video game and manga merch and toys.

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Super Potato

Michael:Retro gaming paradise -- multiple floors of vintage games.

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Sega Akihabara Building 5

Michael:Another giant arcade that's fun to explore. Music games on the second floor.

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Yakiniku LIKE AkihabaraDenkigai

Michael:Great place for a quick cheap bite in Akihabara. (Other locations as well!) Order on an iPad, and each seat has its own grill for cooking your meat. (Vegan meats available!)

Place

Ghibli Museum

Michael:Amazing museum for the creator of Spirited Away (etc.) I cried as soon as I walked in, and then cried again in an exhibit about animating food. If you want to get tickets, you have to be ON THAT SHIT. Instructions in my Google Doc. It's a little bit out of the way but an easy walk from the train.

Place

Shibuya City

Michael:Tokyo's other "Times Square," home of the famous Shibuya Scramble, the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world. Also lots of shopping and bars.

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Shibuya Loft

Michael:Part of a chain of designery home goods, stationery, and gift stores.

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Harajuku

Michael:The center of street fashion in Tokyo!

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Takeshita Street

Michael:The main drag in Harajuku with touristy indie stores -- kind of St. Mark's Place-ish.

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Supreme Harajuku

Michael:Not this store specifically, but the street it's on is full of great sneaker and streetwear shops.

Place

Yayoi Kusama Museum

Michael:Small museum dedicated to this famous artist.

Place

Manten Sushi

Michael:An amazing deal for a highly-rated omakase (chef's tasting menu) sushi meal, located in a quiet shopping mall in Marunouchi. $60 per person for dinner. We were seated at the counter, and watched the chef make sushi in front of us and hand it to us (in some cases directly into our palms). Reserve ahead of time! https://yoyaku.toreta.in/mantensushi/#/

Place

Ekibenya Matsuri

Michael:The tradition is to buy a special bento box (ekiben) to eat on the Shinkansen bullet train. This is a shop with a great variety inside Tokyo Station.

Place

Butagumi Shokudō

Michael:Amazing tonkatsu (crispy fried pork) shop in Roppongi. (This wasn't our favorite neighborhood but if you're in the area it's worth a stop.)

Place

Ikebukuro

Michael:Another nerdy part of town to explore!

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SEGA Ikebukuro GIGO

Michael:Big arcade to explore in Ikebukuro.

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Kura Sushi

Michael:A chain with super cheap conveyor belt sushi. Drop your clean plates into the slot and it will automatically calculate your bill (about $1 per plate) and you can use the ipad for special orders that will be delivered to the table.

Kyoto

Kyoto is a great mix of modern and traditional. A bit quieter and slower, and less overwhelming than Tokyo, with lots of temples.

Place

Kyoto Station

Michael:This is where you'll get off the Shinkansen. The building is insanely gigantic and worth exploring. Take the giant stairs/escalators up to the roof. There's a giant Lego model of the building inside too.

Place

Masutani

Michael:Kyoto Ramen Street is on one of the higher levels of Kyoto Station. There are lots of ramen shops featuring regional styles of ramen. Just make your order at the vending machine and wait in line for your shop.

Place

Kanazawa Maimon Sushi Kyoto Porta Restaurant

Michael:Great conveyor belt sushi place in Kyoto Station

Place

tokyu stay kyoto ryogaemachi-dori

Michael:Inexpensive, modern hotel with a washer/dryer in every room. Very conveniently located in the middle of the city, but on a quiet side street.

Place

nokishita711 Gin and cocktail labo

Michael:Teensy gin bar with very inventive cocktails. There's just one bartender and not much seating so patience is important.

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Bar Brown Sugar

Michael:Very intimate whiskey bar with amazing service. The bartender plays soul music on vinyl, changing records for every song. We went in here on a whim when my sister spotted the sign. Make sure to take off your shoes!

Place

Pontocho Alley

Michael:A narrow traditional-looking alley with lots of bars and restaurants. (The restaurants on the river side all have big balconies overlooking the river.) It is touristy, so you'll be paying a premium for the food.

Place

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Michael:Mountain shrine with thousands of red gates. Very busy and touristy, but totally worth it. Recommend going very early in the morning to beat the crowds. Also wear comfortable clothes, as it's a real hike up to the top (but the amazing views of Kyoto are the reward).

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Kinkaku-ji

Michael:Golden temple. Super busy and touristy, but it is beautiful.

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Nijo Castle Ninomaru palace

Michael:Nijo Castle is a gorgeous palace in the middle of Kyoto. Definitely worth exploring.

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Chion-in

Michael:Buddhist temple complex to explore. (Lots of stairs!)

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Yasaka Shrine

Michael:Bright orange Shinto shrine.

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Kōdaiji Temple

Michael:Buddhist temple with rock gardens and bamboo forest.

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Ryozen Kannon Statue

Michael:Giant statue of the Buddha. (We didn't pay to go inside but you can see it from outside.)

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Matsubara Dori

Michael:Fun classical architecture street to walk around with lots of tourist shops.

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Ghibli Studios Shop Kyoto

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Rengeoin Sanjusangendo

Michael:Temple with 1001 Buddist statues.

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Gion

Michael:Traditional Geisha district, now a tourist center.

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Kamo River

Michael:River through Kyoto with a walking path. We grabbed some canned highballs from a Lawson and sat by the river while we waited for our reservation at a nearby restaurant.

Place

Gion Karyo

Michael:We got a kaiseki dinner here, which is a traditional Japanese meal with many seasonal courses. You sit right at the kitchen and watch the chef make each dish for you. It was a great experience, but might not be for you if you have aversions to certain types of food. Make reservations at JPNEAZY.com

Place

Nishiki Market

Michael:Busy food market where you can grab a lot of different traditional foods.

Place

KissaMaster

Michael:Coffee shop inside a trendy store. Take off your shoes and have a quiet coffee looking at the garden. (Also the street this is on, Sanjo-Dori, has lots of cute shopping.)

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Hakuchikudo

Michael:High-end fan shop with lots of gorgeous souvenirs.

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Sanjo-kai Shōtengai

Michael:A shotengai is a covered shopping street. Lots of restaurants, bakeries, and shops. Convenient route from the hotel to the Pontocho area.

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Kiyamachi-dori

Michael:Street along a canal parallel to Pontocho with lots of nightlife and restaurants.

Place

Arashiyama

Michael:Bamboo forest mountain hike with monkeys. Didn't get a chance to do this yet.

Story

Sagano Scenic Railway Train

Michael:Mountain train along the river from Arashiyama. Would love to do this but haven't yet.

Hakone

Mountain resort town outside Tokyo with lots of hot springs. Also close by Mount Fuji if you're planning to go there.

Place

Odawara Station

Michael:This is the closest Shinkansen station to Hakone. On our first trip, we stopped here on our way from Kyoto to Tokyo, stuffed our luggage in a locker, and took the quick train ride to Hakone-Yumoto (convenient!).

Place

Hakone-Yumoto Station

Michael:Hakone-Yumoto Station (箱根湯本駅) is the gateway to Hakone. In addition to coming from Odawara, you can reserve a seat on the Romancecar train that comes directly from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo in about 80 minutes. You also catch the Hakone Tozan mountain train from this station to go further up the mountain.

Place

Tenzan Onsen

Michael:Gorgeous outdoor onsen (hot spring bath) with views out to the wilderness and a hot pot restaurant adjoining. Note: there are separate mens and womens areas and you have to be naked. (Onsen etiquette in the Google Doc.) Also, they allow all tattoos, which is rare for an onsen. There's a shuttle bus that will take you here from the Hakone-Yumoto station.

Place

The Hakone Open-Air Museum

Michael:Giant museum on top of a mountain with lots of outdoor sculptures and a Picasso gallery. Take the Hakone Tozan train to Chokokunomori station and it's a couple minutes walk away.

Place

Hakone Ropeway

Michael:Cable car at the top of the Hakone Tozan mountain train that will give you great views of Mount Fuji. (It was closed due to volcanic activity when we were there.)

Naoshima

Island filled with modern art installations, art museums, and architecture. You can rent a bike and ride around the island.

Place

Okayama

Michael:Take the Shinkansen to Okayama. You can either stay on Naoshima (expensive) or stay in Okayama and take a day trip to Naoshima (cheap!).

Place

Okayama JOYPOLIS

Michael:Giant arcade in Okayama.

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Korakuen

Michael:Classical Japanese garden in Okayama. Gorgeous!

Place

Okayama Castle

Michael:Another thing to see while you're in Okayama.

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Aeon Mall Okayama

Michael:Giant mall in Okayama that's convenient for killing some time.

Place

Uno Station

Michael:Take the train from Okayama to Uno station to catch the ferry to Naoshima.

Place

Shikoku Kisen Co., Uno branch

Michael:The ferry to Naoshima.

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SANAA ferry terminal

Michael:Where you'll arrive on Naoshima. Art installations are nearby.

Place

Ougiya Rent-a-Cycle

Michael:Grab a coffee and rent a bike here. (Recommend the electric assist bikes as the island is very hilly!)

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Red Pumpkin

Michael:Yayoi Kusama sculpture right next to the ferry terminal.

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Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu

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Chichu Art Museum

Michael:Gorgeous art museum cut out of the earth ("chichu" means "in the ground"), designed by my favorite architect Tadao Ando.

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Lee Ufan Museum

Michael:Another Ando-designed museum.

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Benesse House

Michael:Very expensive hotel but with a museum and lots of art installations open to the public.

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Yellow Pumpkin

Michael:Another Kusama sculpture right on the ocean.

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Ando Museum

Michael:Museum dedicated to the architect in a small town.

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Teshima

Michael:Another nearby modern art island. (We didn't make it to this one.)

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Teshima Art Museum

Michael:Museum with an amazing installation I wish we'd seen, that highlights the physics of water.

Gay things for gays!

Our favorite gay bars and shops

Place

2 Chome Shinjuku

Michael:"Shinjuku Knee-Cho-May" - This is the biggest gay area in Japan, with over 400 gay bars packed into a few city blocks.

Place

EAGLE Tokyo

Michael:Very friendly gay bar that's welcoming to tourists. (Not all are!) With an adjoining outdoor area.

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EAGLE TOKYO BLUE

Michael:Eagle Tokyo's second bar, where we watched Drag Race hosted by a bilingual drag queen.

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AiiRO CAFE

Michael:Small tourist-friendly gay bar where the crowd always spills out onto the street.

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Arty Farty

Michael:This is a tourist-friendly gay bar that's supposed to be very fun (although we have not been).

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Dragon Men

Michael:Tourist-friendly gay bar that's made for dancing (most aren't in Japan).

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BAR BLACKNUDE

Michael:Very odd name but this is a more traditional Japanese gay bar - tiny, only room for 5 or so customers, and you sit and chat with the bartenders (who are not nude but are in their underwear). They were super welcoming and fun! (Many traditional gay bars are private and not super welcoming to tourists.)