Thessaloniki - A Guide to the Obscure

George:The building, located in Kalamaria, near the south end of Thetidos street, stands out from its neighbouring ones: not many mansions that old survive in the area. Also known as “Chatzigogou residence”, it was built in 1930. It has been uninhabited for decades and acquired the reputation of being haunted. In more recent years, it is said that strange sounds would be heard from time to time, coming from the house. This prompted the locals to install a spotlight in its yard and –until some years ago- hang religious icons and garlic on the door and windows, while flowers were occasionally placed near the door. The mansion is another historical building left to decay, now claimed by overgrowth.

George:Vasilissis Olgas Ave n. 263. A dilapidated house that does not seem significant. Yet it is the very building that most Thessalonians think of when asked about a “haunted house”. Its story is the most frequently cited ghost legend of the city. Legend goes, in the Ottoman period, the house belonged to a wealthy bey who killed his wife (it was actually built between 1918 and 1922).The next owners were, it is said, two Jews who were killed by Nazis. During the German Occupation, the Gestapo operated torture rooms in the basement.The spirits of the dead reside there, and have reportedly been the cause of many a disturbance: many of those who lived in it used to hear loud noises and whispers coming from nowhere. Two real estate contractors who tried to demolish it died before work had started. Today the house is a building materials warehouse. Although its story is just an urban legend, even non-believers avoid passing in front of it at night.

George:Back in the summer of 1933, the whole Depot neighbourhood was shaken by the news that the ghost of a priest -or a saint, as others claimed- had appeared in Thermopilon street. On the site stood a short mound, with a pile of rocks near it. In early June, two young boys reported seeing a priest dressed in white appearing near the rocks. Both times, the figure vanished into thin air a short while after it had appeared. The ghost was seen yet again, with three adults witnessing the event this time. The witnesses reportedly saw the spectre praying and seemingly searching for something. This seemed to agree with old tales of a monastery once being located there. The story caused such a sensation that eager crowds flooded the site. Some suggested the mound be excavated, in hopes of finding treasure, while others prayed and lit candles –essentially venerating the strange figure. A report on it was even featured in a local newspaper. No similar events have been recorded in the location since.

George:On June 20th, 1978, a 6.5-Richter earthquake shook Thessaloniki. Most of the casualties lived in the sole block of flats that collapsed. The authorities attributed the collapse to poor stability. Many, however, cited a different cause: the fabled Hippodrome curse.In 390 CE, during the reign of Roman emperor Theodosius, the city guard was comprised of Goth mercenaries, who the Thessalonians disfavoured. The arrest of a popular chariot racer caused an insurrection and the murder of many Goths.The next day, by Theodosius’s order, mercenaries entered the Hippodrome and slaughtered thousands. Legend has it that in the middle of the building stood a column that was painted red from the blood of the slaughtered. The names of the dead were inscribed upon it. The Hippodrome was gradually buried under dirt. During the groundwork for the block of flats mentioned above, a broken column was found.The wrath of the disturbed dead was inescapable.Today, here stands the Thessaloniki Centre for History.

George:In Terpsitheas square, deep within Ano Polis, stands a peculiar building. Octagonal and domed, it looks like the top of some underground church. However, the truth is a bit more complicated. The structure is actually a 16th century mausoleum, located in what used to be the central yard of a Bektashi dervish congregation building. It was built to house the body of dervish Musa Baba, considered a saint by the sect. As a child, Musa was a servant to an agha in the region. While his master was away on pilgrimage, he reportedly transported his mistress’s halva to him, thousands of kilometres away. The story quickly spread and Musa was declared a saint and ordered to guard the already existing tekke. Up until the previous century, many local residents reported seeing Musa’s ghost walking or on horseback. The latter inspired folk tales conflating him with the Christian St. George. During the 20th century, the building and its decorations were damaged greatly, but have now been restored.

George:Just outside the eastern city walls, behind the St. Demetrius hospital lies what on first glance seems to be a park.The visitor will be surprised to find between the trees some bizarre stone structures.This is the mysterious Pasha Gardens. Despite the name, there is no definite connection between the Gardens, built in 1904, and a pasha.The only historically accurate explanation is that they are just a decoration. However, the strange symbols depicted and unusual architecture style, more resembling a work of Gaudi than that of any early 20th century architect, inspired the locals to think otherwise. Many suggested that the site was a meeting place for Ottoman freemasons.Others speculated a connection to army officer Saifullah pasha.Today remain a fountain with a tunnel attached, a pool –water evidently had a major role in the setup, a gate that leads underground and an elevated place for sitting.The structures, however, are in a bad condition and in need of attention from authorities.

George:Ano Polis –the part of Thessaloniki between Olympiados street and the Northern city walls- is an atmospheric maze of short, twisting streets and picturesque buildings. Among the former is Mavris Petras street. Literally meaning “Black Stone street”, the name has intrigued people since long ago. It has been proposed that the name refers to the rocky soil of the area before paved roads existed or that it is a translation of an Ottoman name. However, the most intriguing version states that in 1917 a smooth, black meteorite crashed into what is now the road, prompting locals to later name the street thus. Another more recent urban legend about the street –possibly inspired by the fact that it led to a dead end- tells of a “gate” opening every 15 days that transports passersby across space-time. They then have 15 minutes to return, else remaining in an alternate dimension forever.The street is no longer a no-exit road; following it now offers instead a panoramic view of the city.

George:The Column of the Snakes stands near the west end of Agiou Dimitriou street. It blends so well into the urban environment, it’s almost invisible now. Nevertheless, its origins and history are far more interesting. It dates back to between the 4th and 6th centuries CE. It has been suggested to be the lower half of a 15 metre pillar with a statue on top, as was popularized during that time. According to legend, at some point in the Ottoman period the surrounding neighbourhood filled with snakes, which started moving towards the column and gradually covered it.The locals resorted to religious solutions: a khoja was called who managed to exorcise the snakes. For centuries after, up to the early 1900s, Turkish parents forbid children from going there.The neighbourhood was named Yilan Mermer, “Marble of the Snake”. Through the centuries, it has been used as a streetlamp as well as a drinking fountain and a telephone pole. Today, it stands badly damaged. Forgotten by many, except for taggers.